Tips on the Scottie Puppy: 

If you can afford it at all, I recommend a double-Scottie experience.  Buy two. Many are overwhelmed by the idea of two dogs, but strange as it may seem, the old saying that “two dogs are half the work of one” is actually pretty accurate.  Especially where puppies are concerned, it’s a fantastic deal: they don’t love you any less (you’re always their first choice for play and companionship), but when you’re busy or away, they entertain each other and keep each other company.  There will be countless times in the course of your dog’s life when you’ve got dinner to cook, emails to send, laundry to do, dinners to attend, kids to look after, etc.  Consider how great it is to do all these things and NOT have a dog sitting in the corner making you feel guilty with those “when will you be done?” eyes.  This may seem like a sales pitch, but our puppies get sold regardless of whether they go in singles or pairs.  We just want people to consider the option of two (if it is an option) because most simply write it off as too much work without really considering the realities and benefits of a two-dog household.

You may be surprised by some of the noises your tiny Scottie pup makes.  They can sound like little growling devils.  Don’t be alarmed!  This is just their way of playing.  Scotties make a ton of unique noises – the puppy growling is just part of it.

Puppy teeth are sharp as needles, and your new dog will most likely try to chew on your toes and fingers.  This isn’t a good habit for it to get into, for obvious reasons.  Gently remove your extremities (!) and give your puppy a chew toy instead.

Remember that puppies don’t get full control of their bodily functions until four months!  Messes around the house are just part of the deal – it will seem to go on forever, but remember that housetraining does work, and it does end eventually!  Smacking or yelling at a puppy – or worse, rubbing their nose in the mess – is not the most effective way to train them.  It’s better to just give a firm “NO” when you catch them messing up, and overdo the praise when they get it right and go outside.  When you let them out of their crate, pick them up immediately and carry them to the grass – this helps them to get the idea.  You should also carry them to this same spot of grass after they’ve woken up from a nap, after they’ve eaten, and after they’ve played.  I’d recommend rolling up the rugs in your house, if you have them.  It just makes things easier and less anxious/labour intensive when accidents happen (because there’s a really good chance they’ll always happen on your most treasured rug).

Crate training can be highly successful, but you need to be careful that your dog doesn’t feel caged.  Try feeding your dog in the crate, and leaving the door open when it’s not in use.  Some dogs never take to crate training; while others love their crate like their own personal den.  With our own puppies (the ones we keep), I’m not a stickler for crate training at night.  Others will tell you to let them cry it out, but I see it as an opportunity to bond with your “baby.”  The pups are often in bed with us – they tend to wake us up with their movements and whining when they need to go out.  We do, however, use a crate when we leave the house when the dogs are young.  Sometimes it’s good to have a special toy or snack (peanut butter frozen in a Kong, for example) to keep the dog occupied for an hour or so.  Ultimately, you need to decide what’s best for you and your dog.

A bored and lonely dog is a destructive and disobedient dog!  Never leave a dog, especially a puppy, alone for a whole day.

If you’re new (or old!) to dog ownership, you might consider reading a fantastic book called “The Dog Listener” by Jan Fennell. It’s truly remarkable, and really helps dog owners to think like dogs in order to better understand and train them.